Life of UV Thread in the Tropics – How long do you plan to cruise?

Hanging out with friends at Hog Island is the 'vacation' part of living aboard a sailboat.

"We all know that living on a sailboat is a
 vocation, not a vacation."
~ statement made by James, S/V Love-Zur, during the Cruiser's Net

Sometimes life aboard requires a bit of work amidst the fun you'd rather be having. Finding that balance is important. Sometimes, just when you thought you could have a beach day, you notice that you've got some work ahead. I call it "boat love".

If you had a chance to read my previous post on our cockpit enclosure, "What we Love about our enclosure, what we DON'T and what Sailrite said", then you know that a sewing project was in my future and what UV thread to use was my biggest concern.

Troubadour's cockpit is fully shaded by our enclosure.

This blog post is about choosing a thread you will be happy with and, yes, maybe even sucking it up and digging a little deeper into your wallet to buy a more expensive thread. The questions I needed to ask myself (and you may want to consider, as well) were, "How long do I plan to cruise?" and "How often do I want to do maintenance repairs on my fabric/sewing projects?"

Chris and I are full time liveaboards and our Sunbrella and thread is exposed 365 x 7 x 24. If I would have considered this questions carefully, and thought about where I would be living in 2-3 years and what I'd like to be doing (playing on the beach with friends), I may have purchased the "lifetime" thread. At least, I'd like to think I would have.

When I researched the type of thread to use on Troubadour's cockpit enclosure in early 2013, I wrote to my friends at Sailrite to inquire about the UV 92 thread I planned to use:

"V-92 Polyester thread in the tropics will last 2 to 3 years, in less UV areas it will last 5 to 8 years. It is the most purchased thread at Sailrite. Colors of Polyester thread will fade in high UV areas in a year or so. The only UV proof thread is Tenara or Helios P it will never fade and last longer than the canvas or vinyl project, but is expensive and hard to sew with. Another thread that is a little better than just plain Polyester is Anti-wicking thread (only a few colors choices); it will last longer in the UV, but not as long as Tenara or Helios." ~Email from Sailrite (January, 2013).

Although, Sailrite recommended other thread as well, given my cruiser budget (or was it mentality?), I chose the Sunstop V-92 polyester UV non-wicking thread ($13 for 1,000 yards) in a color to match "Toast" Marine Grade Sunbrella. I thought "Two to three years? Okay, I can live with that," and placed my order. The enclosure was completed and installed in March 2013.

UV Thread break down 2.5 years after stitching. Chafe areas from Shadetree awning friction. The area will need re-stitching and patching.

Patch and re-stitching with "Lifetime" thread. (I didn't pull out old stitches, just sewed right over them.)

Flash forward two and a half years to November 2015 and I'm not so happy about my decision. Stitches have begun to break in critical areas. It suddenly feels like the enclosure was installed yesterday!

I know. I was warned. Not one to let this issue lie, I asked Matt Grant at Sailrite if he'd participate in Q & A blog post to answer some questions about thread for this blog post and for all you DIY'ers out there.

Linda:
Would you comment on polyester vs. nylon thread for the tropics and what bonded means?

Matt:
Sure. You should never use a Nylon thread for outdoor use. Nylon is not nearly as resistant to sun deterioration as Polyester is. Its benefit is that nylon is more elastic than polyester, which makes it more appropriate for upholstery applications where sun is not the primary concern (but stretch is). Sailrite does offer a UV treated nylon but we still don’t recommend it for extended outdoor use. That said I will make sure we do a weather test on it to see how it lasts.

Bonding is the coating that is added to the thread to make it sew better (lubrication) and to not un-lay during sewing. It is also where the additional UV inhibitors are applied.

I chose Toast Sunbrella for our awning and the color "Ashes" Sunstop V-92 thread #103025, but it doesn't appear that you carry that one any longer.

We are slowly switching to A&E thread brand. The Ashes was a Star Ultra Dee brand from Coats. I still think both are excellent products.

I used the Sunstop V92 black that came with my machine and/or Ultra Dee bonded polyester black Coats DB 92 on my sail pack (that was six years ago) the thread is holding up great.

Black or white thread is always better. These do not get a topical dye that requires a “roughing” of the polyester to get the color to stick. Black is solution dyed, so the color runs all the way through.

Will you comment on shelf life of thread once it is purchased?

At least 5 years when stored at normal temperatures.

Skipped stitches were few and it wasn't necessary to fix them.

After thinking this over and not wanting to be re-stitching the enclosure again in 2-3 years, what do you suggest?

My recommendation is a white or black which are not Vat-house dyed. The dyeing process does weaken a new thread from the start. Also if you have cleaned with bleach that will further diminish the thread life. But that said I love the idea of “Lifetime” threads like Profilen or Tenara. For an Oscillating hook machine, like the Ultrafeed, get the Profilen. The Tenara will last. Just keep in mind that it is a bit harder to sew with than the Profilen (more skips on an oscillating hook machine). For anything else both work great.

Here are some facts: Polyester thread (like the Ashes) loses over 60% of its breaking strength in the first year of use. Profilen and Tenara don’t lose any strength in the first three years. Black or white are the best colors of Polyester to use – they won’t fade quickly and they last longer than other colors. Profilen and Tenara are very expensive when compared to Polyester thread of equivalent sizes.



What needle do you recommend with the Profilen thread? It sounds like the most reliable option for my re-stitching project. We plan to continue cruising in the tropics for five or more years.

I would use a #16 needle with the Profilen. The four ounce Profilen cones are $69. Eight ounce cones are $129. We have clear and black as options. The needles are our part number 857 and a 10 pack is $5.75.

~~~_/)

Troubadour's enclosure laces on making it easy to remove - but it takes time away from the fun stuff.

 

On November 18 and 19, 2015 Chris unlaced and removed the enclosure. Within six hours I had completed the re-stitching project using the “Lifetime” Profilen thread. I am elated with it! I followed Matt's recommendation of a #16 needle (but noticed afterwards that I had been using a #14). In the beginning there were a few skipped stitches, but after making a slight turn of the needle to the 10 o'clock position (as indicated in my Ultrafeed LSZ-1 Guidebook) and using a slightly smaller stitch length, I didn't have any problems. I used clear thread which I like because it makes it hard to see that I even did a re-stitching project.

I highly recommend this thread for your important long term UV exposed canvas projects.

What I used: Profilen PTFE Lifetime Thread Clear 8oz Cone, Item #: 107129, $129, compare to $13.95 for 4oz UV 92 thread (or $26 for 2 cones 8oz equivalent). Or to put it another way "Lifetime" vs. 2-3 years in the tropics.

Check out my other articles on the Sewing on Board and the DIY tabs on our blog. I hope you found this blog helpful as you prepare for your next sewing on board project.

Thanks to the team at Sailrite for your help and responses.

 

 

 

What we LOVE about our enclosure, what we DON'T and what Sailrite said

Two and a half years after completing Troubadour's cockpit enclosure, we are still very happy with our design. All of the products used were purchased from Sailrite. Details of the design and fabrication can be found on my Picasa web albums at the links below. As a DIYer I am always curious how my sewing projects stand the test of time. I admit that I am a fan of Sailrite, not just for their products, but also the excellent customer service and responsiveness I've received from them during the past seven years of living aboard. I don't always fall in love with every product I purchase, either, though. Having said that, some questions have come up about the thread and basting tape used on the enclosure project. I asked Sailrite if they would respond to my questions as part of a blog post. Matt Grant, Vice President and owner, fresh from the Annapolis boat show, took the bait!

One of the great things about our enclosure is all the shade it provides from our Phifertex Screens, as well as the feeling of an additional "room" when our screens are down. The enclosure top, measuring at 14' x 9' and 75 inches in height provides a large footprint. If we were going to catch rain, that is where we could gather it. We've often talked about making fabric rain gutters and I have some articles from other cruisers on how to make them if I choose to in the future.
 

Troubadour's cockpit enclosure with screens down.

For more on how I made our enclosure, check out these links:

Part 1: Fabricating and Sewing the Enclosure

Part 2: Phifertex Screens

Part 3: Regalite Vinyl Windows

We also love the Phifertex Vinyl Mesh screens. They provide sun protection as well as wind protection, especially on the gusty days. On the flip side though, when the winds are light the screens block the wind such that they need to be rolled up (which is part of the design). The enclosure keeps the cockpit dry and the screens keep the cockpit clean from the Saharan dust that is often blowing in the air in Grenada. Phifertex is easy to clean with Dawn and water. While we are on a mooring in Secret Harbour, we don't have problems with mosquitoes, but during times when we were in a marina, the screens kept out the mozzies and no-see-ums. The screens also offer privacy for on deck showers, only allowing the lookyloos to see shadows.

I am very happy with Marine Grade Sunbrella fabric and the color we chose of Toast. Sunbrella is easy to maintain and cleans well with mild soap and water. This month Chris used a foam roller with Star Brite Waterproofing & Fabric Treatment on the enclosure top because we were having a few drips and as a preventative measure knowing Sunbrella will eventually lose its water repellent properties. The Star Brite is working and beads nicely.



Sunbrella beads after waterproofing with Star Brite.

Sunbrella fabrics do fade - compare new Toast Marine Grade on the left;
 and the same fabric after 30 months UV exposure. This is typical in the Caribbean.

Regalite windows continue to be soft and supple.
I made Phifertex shade screens to extend their life and add shade to the cockpit.

I sewed all the vinyl windows for our enclosure with Regalite 30 Gauge Vinyl glass. We really love this product. The center section is rolled up in the morning and closed at night. On rainy days it could get rolled up and down several times. The windows continue to be soft and easy to roll, keep clean and don't scuff easily. Also we don't notice any distortion which sometimes occurs with vinyl windows. They have not yellowed, either. We also regularly clean them with mild soap and water and treat with plastic polish. We have two sets of side windows and an aft window, in addition to our "dodger" windows. We don't use the side windows as often as anticipated. The rain showers aren't very long here (usually). When underway we sometimes zip on the forward side windows to keep the cockpit dry from sea spray or rain. I have not completed the aft side windows, they are much larger. All the materials to make the windows are ready to be sewn, but we don't need to create what would be a greenhouse effect if all the windows were in place in the tropics. I probably didn't need to purchase all that window material.

 I am really disappointed with the life of the V-92 Polyester UV thread. 

I'm not happy with the thread and I don't like that I will have to re-stitch the whole enclosure. I used V-92 Polyester UV thread from Sailrite in a color called Ashes on the whole project. I am really disappointed with the life of the V-92 thread, especially for a project of this size. I guess I knew that it would last a few years and that seemed like a long time into the future, but now that I have to re-stitch, it seems like only yesterday that I put the enclosure on! At 30 months this thread is breaking down quickly and it seems suddenly. It's as if every stitch has just decided to quit. It's kind of scary because every exposed area is ripe for splitting open.



Expect 2-3 years out of UV thread exposed to the Caribbean Sun.

It is most noticeable on the top of the enclosure, on the tails that the zippers have been sewn into and on the binding trim, as well as the zipper and binding stitches around the backstays. I used a semi-flat felled seam across the sections that align to the bow arches on top. It is this seam that concerns me the most, however, thankfully, with a semi-flat felled seam, the inside seam does not get exposed to the sun's rays. Needless to say the cover will be removed soon and re-stitched. I plan to evaluate the responses from Sailrite before choosing a thread for this project and will update you in another blog post.

I chose Ashes for it's color and UV protection (and I used it as directed on the Sailrite website). I've noticed that the black thread on the sail pack that I made six years ago is still holding. I am now considering a more expensive lifetime thread. I really don't want to use black with my tan enclosure - white or clear would be ideal colors. It is my theory that dark thread will hold up much longer than light thread.

Sailrite, what is the expected life of UV Thread when exposed 24 x 7 x 365 in the southern latitudes? And what do you recommend as an alternative?

Sailrite Response:

"Two years is about right for your area (we suggest 2 to 3 years). My recommendation is a white or black which are not Vat-house dyed. The dyeing process does weaken a new thread from the start. Also if you have cleaned with bleach that will further diminish the thread life. But that said, I love the idea of “Lifetime” threads like Profilen or Tenara. For an Oscillating hook machine, like the Ultrafeed, get the Profilen. For anything else both work great.

"Here are some fun facts: Polyester thread (like the Ashes) loses over 60% of its breaking strength in the first year of use. Profilen and Tenara don’t lose any strength in the first three years. Black or white are the best colors of Polyester to use – they won’t fade quickly and they last longer than other colors. Profilen and Tenara are very expensive when compared to Polyester thread of equivalent sizes."

Another product I often use and like is Seamstick 3/8" Basting Tape for Canvas, part #129 from Sailrite. This product acts like a glue to bind seams together before stitching and to help seal the seam when sewn. This works sometimes and sometimes it doesn't. In my opinion, the best benefit of the product is to hold seams together before and during stitching.

I also used a similar a product bought locally (because I used up my supply mid project) to hold the Regalite vinyl to Sunbrella Canvas before sewing. However, after less than a year of the Caribbean heat and sun, the "glue" has seeped through the Sunbrella. The negative side is it looks strange and it's sticky. I can live with it.

Sailrite, what is causing the Seamstick glue to seep through the canvas? Is it the heat of sun causing this?

 
Sailrite Response:

"Basting tape is a great help when sewing canvas. But it is important to select the right type for the job. Getting a tape that is too sticky, or one that is not compatible with PVC can cause a sticky and ugly mess. The rules are quite simple. If the material is smooth (little texture) and slick, use a less aggressive tape. Sailrite simply calls this “Seamstick”. But if you are sewing a textured canvas (like Sunbrella), use a more aggressive adhesive thickness. Sailrite calls this “Seamstick for Canvas”. We make this work by providing Seamstick in a hybrid acrylic/rubber base composition. Here the rubber adhesive element helps to create a strong bond where adhesive thickness is minimized. It would not stick well to Sunbrella, but works great for sailcloth and other Polyester based fabrics.

"The Seamstick for Canvas on the other hand is an Acrylic based adhesive. This type of adhesive is not prone to having a chemical reaction with PVC which causes softening of the adhesive and thus a potential bleed situation. I guess what I am trying to say is that the type of adhesive is important. Rubber based products can and do result in the situation you have. I think if the #129 had been used, you would not have this issue. We intend to do a new long-term test of our current tape to confirm this again. I should also state that there are some specialty tapes beyond those mentioned here that are really aggressive for applications without sewing. I will not go into these as their website descriptions will guide you in their use.



This picture was taken shortly after installation of the cockpit enclosure.
Notice the left side of the rolled middle window near top of photo and compare to photo below.

Nearly three years later, fabric glue seeps through the fabric when used with vinyl window material.

"The older tape that I mentioned before “Seamstick (rubber based basting tape)” was offered for very aggressive use where we were careful to tell consumers not to use it on Sunbrella when mixed with a PVC fabric. We discontinued this as it was confusing and once a customer got the product they could not tell the difference from other types. I was just dangerous to offer."

Additionally, some areas where I used the basting tape there were still leaking seems. This began at around 24 months. Maybe the thread was breaking down already. It is possible in some places my needle didn't go through the basting tape. In an attempt to stop the leaks (they weren't big leaks, just annoying little drips especially along the structural areas) we purchased Gear Aid Seam Sure Water Based Seam Sealer on Amazon and applied that to the seams but it did not support it's claims on our seams. Maybe some products just don't hold up in the elements no matter where you are.



Chris laces on Troubadour's enclosure (March 2013).

Sailrite products used on Troubadour's enclosure we love:

• As mentioned earlier, we are happy with the vinyl window material - Regalite 30 Gauge Vinyl. Relatively easy to sew and with regular cleaning it has remained supple and handles well when rolling it up.
• YKK #10 Zippers are holding up well with regular lubricating and I sewed them so that they stayed covered and protected from the sun.
• E-Z Lace Supreme has proven to hold its promise. This is an awesome product that saved us from putting a million grommets in our "lace on" enclosure top. The E-Z Lace allows our enclose to be attached to the frame. The  ring of stitches where the E-Z Lace was sewn to the top are exposed to UV rays, too, and will need to be re-stitched as well.
• Nickel Plated Snap Buttons. I got fancy and used tan colored snap buttons. The tops are showing fading and whitening by the sun, and on some of the snaps the paint has cracked or peeled off. They are all still functional and working great. They get lubricated regularly, too, using the zipper lube stick.

 

More Sailrite fabrics we love
 

I am very jazzed about our Surlast foredeck awning. Although it does not live on deck year round, it has held up very well, and has only needed minor chafe repair on the corners and other tension areas where straps were sewn that attach it to the toe rail. I could have put these chafe protection patches on when I made the awning, but didn't know to do that. When I see an area that needs repair, I add a patch. As I mentioned, the fabric is Surlast and is very lightweight and completely water resistant. This large awning will roll up into a small duffel (which I also made to store it in). The stitches and seams have held up. I used double rubbed seams and would highly recommend them for any project that will be exposed in the tropics year-round. (Yes, more fabric is used in this type of seam, but worth it in my opinion for strength and durability.) This awning is five years old and is still water repellent.

 

 "Surlast fabric is a tough, non-abrasive polyester fabric with excellent weather and abrasion resistance and good breathability." ~ Sailrite

The Phifertex Vinyl Mesh screen product sold by Sailrite is a pure joy to have on board. If you are doing any sewing projects where you will need a screen  product - shower caddy, cockpit screens, cushions, sheet bags, hatch screens, dinghy chaps, etc. this product holds up over time, is easy to clean, and easy to sew with. I recommend having a yard or two on board because you never know what you may need it for. Phifertex provides a 70% shade factor. Phifertex Plus Mesh provides a 90–95% shade factor. Both can be used to extend the life of vinyl windows.



Stern pulpit shower caddy made with Phifertex and Sunbrella.

Sailrite products we wouldn't live without

• Engel Hotknife - well worth the price. But don't bother with the Cutting Foot (at $50). I found this guide to be more a bother than it was worth. I cut my fabric on a stainless 36" ruler or I use an aluminum cookie sheet.
• Magnetic Bobbin Holder - I can't tell you how many times a bobbin went rolling across the cabin sole. When Sailrite advertised this product I snatched it up. It fits perfectly in the bottom of the side cubby on my machine.
• Seamstick 3/8" Basting Tape for Canvas, part #129 (mentioned earlier) - I really like this product and it can be used for any number of non-sewing projects. Noting my earlier concern, I will be more careful when purchasing similar products.
• Sewing Machine Needles Size 12 - I have done several projects and clothing repairs using the simple #12 home sewing needles and home sewing thread that can be purchased for the LSZ-1 Sailrite. Be aware that the presser foot is firm and could leave tracks in your fabric (test and adjust if you need to).

Envelope-style pillow cover using a favorite t-shirt sewing on the
 Sailrite LSZ-1 using a #12 needle and home sewing thread.

• 1" Swing-Away Straight Binder - love, love, love this handy gadget for sewing on binding. It makes projects that require binding so much quicker and easier when you use the pre-made binding. It automatically guides and folds binding tape into place over the edge of fabric as you sew. If you are going to make a cockpit enclosure as featured in Make Your Own Full Boat Enclosure DVD then I highly recommend buying this in the size needed for your project. The extra expense will save you time, frustration, tears and beers (the ones you drown in)!
• Magnetic Sewing Guide - yes you could use a piece of tape, but this little gadget makes it so easy to not have to think so much about keeping seams straight.

Check out my other articles on the Sewing on Board and the DIY tabs on our blog. I hope you found this blog helpful as you prepare for your next sewing on board project.

 

A blog post on UV thread considerations for cruisers

 and more from Sailrite will soon follow this post.

 

Thanks to the team at Sailrite for your help and responses.

Sanding and Sewing

Since this is our first blog post of the year, a “Happy New Year” shout out to everyone, even if it is a few weeks late! We completed priming the hull as described in the last post. As the even color of the primer slowly became the norm, it was easier to see that the surface of the filler over the patches where I removed thru-hulls just wasn’t even, “fair” in nautical terms. Despite sanding and filling numerous times, the different colors tended to mask the unevenness. After coming this far, I wasn’t willing to settle so I went back at them, sanding through the meticulously applied primer to sand down the high spots, and adding a bit more filler in the low places, sighting down the hull in several different directions each time, before re-applying several coats of primer to bring everything back to even.

We managed to get the first finish (shiny) coat on just before the New Year, and marveled how the books are right: those reflections really make it easy to see every imperfection in sanding, fairing, or painting! We realize that as a first time DIY job it’s not going to be perfect, so we concentrated on refining our technique with each coat and are improving our painting technique, as well as learning to ignore the small spots we missed filling, or the small humps where filler wasn’t sanded down perfectly. The goal is to get to a “10 footer”, a job that looks shiny and great from 10 feet away.
After sanding out our worst mistakes and giving the boat an overall sanding, we were ready to apply our “final” coat this weekend. Saturday was rainy, a non-starter. Sunday was dry and cooler than usual, perfect for the paint to flow out smoothly. We got the port side painted in the morning shade, and returned in the afternoon to complete the job. About an hour into our “final” pass down the starboard side, a 10 minute rainshower passed over and decimated our work. It looks like we have another few days of sanding out the texture, washing, wiping, and painting in our future. Oh well, another chance to perfect our technique!




Water beading up is fine after you're done painting, not so nice while you're painting!

While we were sanding and painting, the guys at TechNick finished welding the new davit/arch, and installed it along with the new cockpit enclosure frame. I’ve managed to fish most of the wires through the arch legs and have reinstalled the stern light, radar, TV, VHF, and GPS antennas, and still need to complete the WiFi and Sirius antenna installs. We still have some minor additions/changes, so the welders will be back to run the “punch list”.

While wiring the new arch, I took the time to route some of the cables at the helm through the pedestal leg, and install a proper watertight seal for the radar cable, removing the putty and filling the old hole with epoxy. Typical boatyard job creep!

With the new enclosure in place, Linda was able to finalize measurements and order Sunbrella, screen, and window material for the new enclosure, including the snap hardware and zippers we’ll use to assemble everything. The fabric, batting and pillows for the new settee arrived so she has been busy covering the settee cushion foams she had cut by Nabela, nearby here in the industrial park. I’m sure each of these projects will get their own posts in the future. For now, back to sanding!